Kusayane no Yado – Ryu no Hige (草屋根の宿 龍のひげ) is a unique ryokan. It’s not in Yufuin proper, instead about 10 minutes drive to the west, its old name was Sansou Yumuta no Mori (Mountain House of Yumuta Forest) before it revamped as a high class ryokan in 2012.

草屋根之宿 龍之鬍鬚 是一間很特殊的旅館。不在由布院 (湯布院) 主區域內，而是往西開車10分鐘處，前身又叫山荘 ゆむ田の森，在2012年重整成一間高級旅館。

 

Actually, Kusayane no Yado – Ryu no Hige is not its full name, the ryokan has two areas, Ryu no Hige are cabins while its other half Bettei Yumuta (Annex Yumuta) consists of an separated wing of 5 double rooms. The full name is thus Kusayane no Yado – Ryu no Hige/Bettei Yumuta (草屋根の宿 龍のひげ/別邸 ゆむた). The meaning of Yumuta is not known, my guess is that it’s Yu meaning hot bath and Mu for village, or a homophone of Yu-Me (Dream) as Yu-Mu. (Correction: Found out it’s 湯無田 as in hot bath, nothingness, field)

其實 草屋根之宿 龍之鬍鬚 還不是全名，旅館有兩區，離屋叫龍之鬍鬚，另一區一棟5間雙人房的分館稱別邸 ゆむた。合起來為草屋根之宿 龍之鬍鬚 別邸ゆむた。ゆむた意思為何不知，猜測是湯的ゆ和村的む，也可能是夢ゆめ的諧音。(改:問了Rika是ゆむた原漢字是湯無田)

 

The ryokan earns its name by the beard of dragon grass (リュウノヒゲ, lilyturf) grown atop the roof of its main hall, the grass shields the building from the sun and acts as an insulation in winter, making the inside cool in summer and warm in winter.

龍之鬍鬚取名來自母屋屋頂上種的龍鬚草(麥門冬草)，可隔絕炎日，同時也是保暖的絕緣體，屋子內冬暖夏涼。

When initially looking at the comments a few things stood out. The comments are very consistent, they talk about how the place exceeds expectations, how good the food is (and how much there was) and how well the staffs are.

一開始研究時注意到幾件事。一是他的評價很一致，大多提到這地方超出預期，食物多好吃（且量很多）還有恰如其分的待客服務。

 

Every room (Ryu no Hige and Annex) faces Mt. Yufu and has a half open air onsen bath.

每個房間（離屋和別邸皆是）都面對由布岳和半開放式的露天溫泉。

 

There’s something very personal about the place, the way its facebook posts are written and the way its website is built.

這地方給人很個人化的感覺，從臉書上的發言，網頁的設計上都很溫馨。

 

It doesn’t promise luxury, nor does it promise tradition or history. There’s no hundred year old main buildings, no Japanese garden with little streams or zen pebbles. Actually there’s no garden at all, just landscaped footpath connecting the cabins. It doesn’t even have a bar or reading space or lounge area. It barely has a lobby. In short, it has essentially no public spaces for guests to stroll or hang about.

他不提供豪華享受，也不靠傳統或歷史。沒有百年老屋，沒有日式庭院的小溪或充滿禪意的碎石子。其實連個花園也沒有，只有連結小屋之間的走道旁稍有修飾過。沒有酒吧或讀書間或聊天室。連大廳也是小小的。簡單說，基本上沒有公共空間給住客閒逛或打發時間。

 

It’s often said, make the guests them feel at home. Many hotels, resorts and ryokans certainly strive to do this, with plenty of services and hospitality and asking about how they may serve you. What makes Ryu no Hige stands out is this is the first time I’ve felt the true meaning of the saying. It is the combination of the comfort of its cabin and the delicately balanced distance of its staffs that truly makes one forget every worry in the world and more at home than home.

常聽到『賓至如歸』這句話。許多飯店，渡假村，旅館宣稱這是他們努力的目標，提供許多服務和招待，並且常詢問有什麼他們可效勞之處。龍之鬍鬚獨特之處是這是我第一次感受到這句話的真諦。舒適的小屋和服務人員保持的微妙的距離，讓人確實將一切煩惱拋到腦後，感到比在自己家中還更自在輕鬆。

 

What will immediately strikes you after turning off the road, down and up the small path into the carpark, is how low profile the place is, figuratively and literally. There’s only a single sign by the main road pointing out this is where you should turn. Atop the hill at the entrance of the carpark, there’s a small hut where the staffs already awaits your arrival.

轉入叉路，尋小路下坡後再向上開往停車場，立刻注意到的是這地方有多低調，字面上和比喻上皆是。公路上只有一個看板指出該在這裡轉入。在坡頂的停車場入口有個小亭子，服務人員早在這裡等候住客駕臨。

 

There’s no planted flowers or other rock decos, no signboard saying welcome or where to go. The whole carpark could pass as a scenic lookout carpark on the side of the road.

沒有花叢或石頭藝術，沒有看板寫著歡迎或往哪走。不細察可能會誤以為是那個觀景點的路邊停車場。

Next you’ll notice the ryokan is missing, that’s because the main hall is actually situated slightly downhill and has such a low profile that with its grass roof, blends perfectly into the surrounding landscape. Blink, and you’ll miss it’s even there.

然後會注意到的是沒看到旅館。這是因為母屋位於山坡另一側，視覺上很低調，加上屋頂上的草，無縫融入自然中。稍一眨眼就會忘記它的存在。

A moss lined path graciously curves to the entrance of the hall, plain and devoid of furnishing save for the ryokan’s name to one side. The colours are subdued throughout and easy on the eyes. The interiors similarly without excess wall pictures, statues or other trinkets, only a few vases of flowers dotted the space, elegant without hinting utilitarian.

小徑兩側鋪著苔癬，以高雅的弧線通道母屋門口。簡約，除了一旁寫著旅館名字外沒有多餘的裝置。處處色調柔和悅目。內部裝潢一樣，牆上沒有多掛畫，擺設雕像或其他小玩意兒，整個空間只散洛這幾只花瓶點綴，優雅而不顯實用主義。

 

The staffs initially thought we were from China, probably because in my email I mentioned we speak english and chinese. A friendly, spirited Taiwanese young lady was assigned to us and showed us to our room and gave us a detailed introduction to its features.

一開始服務人員以為我們是中國來的，大概是我在信中提到我們也說中文和英文吧
。負責我們這次住宿的是位在日本工作的台灣人，是位活潑友善的女孩Rika(後來請問的）。她帶我們到我們的小屋，介紹房間和旅館的設備。

 

Ryu no Hige has 5 cabins, each slightly different, of the twins, Tsukushi (つくし) and Warabi (わらび), Warabi was traditional Japanese style while Tsukushi which I chose for us was described as modern Japanese style.

龍之鬍鬚的5間離屋都不太一樣。つくし和わらび兩間並排為一對，算是雙胞胎。 わらび是傳統和式而我們選的つくし說是現代日式。

 

I had chosen Tsukushi instead of Warabi because it had a clearer view of the mountains. Warabi was situated closer to the main hall, there’s another cabin directly in front and below, though not obstructing, could see the roof of it.

選つくし是因為他看山的視野比較遼闊。わらび比較接近母屋，前方坡下有另一間小屋，雖然不至於擋到但可看到屋頂。

The inside of Tsukushi was made of fir wood (I think?), from the floorboards to the furnitures and pillars and frames, the colour light and soft. There’s a foyer, on the wall hung a shoe horn doubling as the space’s only decoration. Step onto the raised floor, to the right was the door to the toilet and baths, in front leads into the main room.

つくし內部以杉木為主，從地板到桌椅匡柱，顏色淺淡柔和。一進門是玄關，牆上掛有鞋拔，充作這空間唯一的飾品。踩上和室架高地板，右側是通往衛浴的門，正前方則是主間。

 

The living room had two areas, the tatami sleeping area and a living space with sofas. Japanese paper sliding doors could either be closed to create two separate spaces or completely slid to the side to create one continuous wide open space. To note the slide doors slides into the walls and to the side of the closet so when fully opened there are no doors in sight, it is truly without boundary (save for one pillar in the corner).

主間分為兩的區塊，榻榻米的睡覺間和有沙發的起居空間。可將紙門關上形成兩個完全獨立房間，或是完全打開連結成一個寬廣的空間。紙門完全滑入牆內和衣櫃側邊，完全打開時是看不到門的，空間視野上無分界(除了角落的一根柱子)。

 

The side facing Mt Yufu consisted entirely of glass doors that keeps out the cold air. Spotless, there’s not a smudge or spot to be found on them. The eyes gazes past them without the slightest hinder, to the deck outside, over the railing and drawn to the rolling mountains in the distance, all in one breathless wonder filled sigh.

面由布岳那側是整片玻璃門，隔開外頭的冷空氣。一塵不染，上頭找不到一點手印或污漬。視線毫無阻礙的看過去，到外頭的陽台，越過欄杆，注目於遠方的山巒，皆在一息讚歎之間。

A water cooler sits in the corner. No need to fetch water from the basin. There’s a TV in the living area and another smaller one by the tatami for those needing some bedtime drama.

角落有個給水機，不用像其他住宿從水龍頭取水。起居間有台電視，榻榻米旁也有一台小的，為睡前想看點電視劇的人而備。

There’s tea and drip filtered coffee on the shelf. On the tea table packets of delicious Japanese sweet cake from a famous shop in Yufuin.

櫥櫃裡有茶和吊掛式咖啡。茶桌上是來自由布院一家名菓子店，超好吃的小甜點。

Return to the foyer and open the other door. The wash basin/vanity is on the right, upon sits rows of care products, and an entire travel set of Shiseido. On the opposite side of where one came in is another door, the light automatically turns on when one enters the toilet. To the left is another door, here there are racks with 3 set of baskets and towels, a small changing room space before one enters the bathroom. Open this final door and one at last enters the bathroom. The first half is the shower area, the other half lies a huge onsen bath, enough for at least 5 people to comfortably bath in at same time (though Tsukushi is limited to 3 guests only).

回到玄關滑開另一道門。右側是洗臉台，上頭放著贈送的一套小罐資生堂產品。入口對面是另一個門，進入廁所時頭頂的燈自動亮起。穿過左側另一道門，這裡架子上擺著3個籃子和3套毛巾。一個進入浴室前的小更衣間。打開最後一扇門，進入浴室。一半是淋浴區，另一半則是一個大溫泉池，要5個人同時泡也夠 (つくし設定是最多3人)。

 

Note the number of doors mentioned. The bathroom, change room, toilet, wash basin/makeup room are all separated, there is no concern about affecting each other. A person can be on the toilet, another drying hair before the vanity, and another changing out of their clothes to go into the bath, all while another person is sipping coffee in the living room and yet another sleeping in the tatami room (again, this cabin only allows up to 3 guests).

注意提及門的次數。浴室，更衣間，廁所，洗臉/化妝間全部都是隔開的，不用擔心互相干擾。可以一個人用廁所，另一個在洗臉台前吹頭，一個在更衣間脫衣準備進去泡澡，同時還有一人在起居室品咖啡，另一人在榻榻米間睡覺。(重申一次，小屋住宿最多只准3人）

 

The glass doors in front of the bath can be slid open (again, completely into the wall) and the right side window opened to create a half open air bath. Or if feeling cold, slide out a few or shut them completely. The mountain view could be enjoyed while one baths.

溫泉池前的玻璃門可以滑開（同樣的，完全滑入牆側)，右邊的落地窗也可打開，形成一個半露天風呂。若覺得冷也可以只留一扇或完全關閉。邊泡溫泉可以邊欣賞外頭的山景。

 

The onsen water here contains a little more iron and has a reddish tint, with a slight sulfur smell. Of course, it’s kakenagashi, to be enjoyed even in the middle of the night.

這裡的溫泉水含鐵成分比較多，色澤略紅，微帶硫磺味。當然了，這裡是放流，半夜也可享受。

 

Two forms of yukata was prepared. The more common yukata and the samue (shirt and pants) combination if one felt yukata to be a little cumbersome. Plus haori and tanzen.

準備的浴衣有兩種。除了常見的浴衣，另外還有比較舒服靈活的作務衣，若不喜歡穿浴衣可選擇。

 

I don’t have too many photos to show. Once inside the whole person becomes so relaxed I often forget to take photos. All a person feels is the mountains, the woods, and the comfort of the cabin.

我沒有太多房間的照片。一到裡頭立刻正個人放鬆下來，也就忘了要照相了。感受的全是山，森林，還有小屋的舒適。

 

Sometime before dinner I hopped over to the lobby to ask for a sewing kit for mom to fix her shirt’s button, at the same time also asked if they could help me book the popular B-Speak cake rolls for tomorrow. Originally I had trouble explaining the sewing kit to the lady at the desk (this is a little bit above my Japanese….), thankfully the Taiwanese young lady came back and helped with the situation. I cannot thank her enough, and feel a little bad because we caused her a lot of extra efforts, as will be mentioned further down.

晚餐前某個時候我去櫃檯一趟，老媽上衣扣子掉了，跟她們借個針線盒，另外請問她們是否可以幫我預訂超人氣B-Speak蛋糕捲，好明天拿。一開始我想不出該如何問針線盒(日文太爛)，幸好Rika這時回來了，幫忙解決了所有問題。真是太感謝Rika了，也要說聲抱歉，添了許多麻煩，見本篇下面。

Dinner is served at 6:30pm. No exceptions.

晚餐固定是6:30。沒有例外。

 

The meal is served at the main hall in semi-enclosed rooms. The walls do not extend to the top of the rooms, probably to help with ventilation.

用餐是在母屋的半獨立個室。大概是為了通風，隔間牆並沒有延伸到天花板。

The first dish was a warm boiled fish in soup dish. Immediately it warms the body and gently eases the stomach in readiness.

第一道菜是溫暖的煮魚配湯。一吃立刻全身暖起來，也溫和地告知胃該準備進食了。

Perhaps because the young lady was also from Taiwan, she asked if we would like our rice and miso soup to come first (instead of last as is usually the case for Japanese meal) which my parents gladly accepted.

或許因為Rika也是台灣人的關係吧，她詢問我們是否想要先上飯和味噌湯 (通常在日本是最後上)，我爸媽很開心地接受這提案。

There’s a hot water kettle/thermos and tea set in one corner so one could help oneself to some tea at anytime.

一角擺著熱水壺和茶具，想喝茶時隨時可自己泡。

It’s little details like these which initially seemed insignificant that leaves a strong impression.

這些看似微不足道的小細節讓人印象深刻。

 

I ordered some sake, something which I never usually do.

點了一小瓶米酒，通常我是不會加點東西的。

Sashimi, in addition to the wasabi there’s a yuzu and pepper too for use on the fish with stronger taste (very spicy and very good, it’s slightly cool and sweet from the yuzu first then the pepper kicks in). The young lady looked up each of the fish’s name (and each ingredient in every dish) in chinese to help explain the dish to us. (I’m ashamed to say I don’t remember all of them)

生魚片，山葵之外還有一種香橙加胡椒子的佐醬搭配味道較重的魚 (很辛很有味，一開始香橙涼涼甜甜的，然後才感到胡椒後勁)。Rika還查了每種魚的中文 (還有每道菜的各個材料) 好一一為我們解釋。(很慚愧的我沒能記住幾個)

Fried pumpkin, pork with dandelion leaf. The slight bitterness of the leaf counteracts the fatty pork perfectly.

炸南瓜，豬肉，和蒲公英。葉子微微的苦味正好平衡肥肥的豬肉。

The main dish. Ryu no Hige’s signature meat grill. The beef and chicken were from Kagoshima (southern Kyushu).

The chicken was what’s called a chi-tori, meaning local chicken, very meaty and bitey.

The beef was very good, succulent and seemingly just melts in the mouth.

Yes, all this for 3 people. Some people might be able to finish this, we don’t have a shot. We’re told that if we cannot eat it all, they will use the meat to cook a new dish for us for breakfast. It’s almost like their trademark as many many people mention this in their comments. So if you ever visit, only cook what you will eat, leave the rest for the next day.

The grill is deceiving, it’s the infrared flameless type which provides an even and strong heat.

主餐。龍之鬍鬚的招牌烤肉。牛和雞肉是鹿兒島產的（九州南部）。

雞是地雞，也就是土雞，肉感十足很有嚼勁。

牛肉肉質很好，柔軟多汁，似乎入口即化。

沒看錯，3個人吃這麼大一盤。或許有些人能吃完吧，我們很有自知之明直接投降。她建議我們說，若吃不完廚房會用剩下的肉在早餐時做成另一道菜。算是這裡的特色了，評語中常會提到這點。所以若有機會來龍之鬍鬚，切記要吃多少考多少，多的留隔天再戰。

烤架是無煙紅外線式，火候強烈均勻。

Soft boiled egg with chicken? The egg was done just right, the yolk soft and slippery and the white slightly firm to give a contrasting texture.

糖心蛋和雞肉? 蛋煮的剛好，蛋黃軟滑，蛋白QQ的，互相襯托。

Salmon fillet sandwiched with potato. Slightly charred persimmon with orange and tomato. In the middle is chinese mustard (芥菜). All on white cauliflower sauce. The chinese mustard is a little peppery.

鮭魚排夾馬鈴薯。稍微烤過的柿子和橘子，番茄。中間的是芥菜。配白花椰菜醬。芥菜微帶點辛刺。

Soba sushi. Rice wrapped with soba noodles on a soup of cooked buckweat. It’s a refreshing dish, the texture of noodles and rice in the mouth was very interesting.

蕎麥麵壽司。蕎麥麵包飯，底下湯含煮蕎麥粒。味道比較清淡。麵條和飯同時的口感很有意思。

Japanese Spanish Mackarel (Scomberomorus niphonius 鰆) fried then boiled with mushroom and red bell pepper. It smells incredible and is full of flavour, yet does not have the oily feel of fried food.

鰆魚，先炸再煮，配香菇和紅椒。很香，味道很濃郁，卻沒有油炸食物的油膩感。

Fried daikon mochi. It’s not as sticky as regular mochi making it quite easy to eat, and soaked up a lot of flavour of the stock.

炸羅蔔麻糬。沒有一般麻糬黏，很容易吃，吸收了很多高湯的味道。

Pudding with rice puffs (ポン菓子). It’s a very light sweet taste, the rice puffs gave it a very fun texture.

米果布丁。味道微甜，加上米果的口感很有趣。

 

Delicious would not do the chef justice.

單用『好吃』形容這餐會是對料理長的不敬。

 

After the most creative and delightful dinner we return to our room. It was night, the bright full moon silhouetting the black mountain peaks, a thin wisp of cloud capped Mt Yufu. The tranquil landscape was like a scene out of a book.  

在充滿新奇喜悅的晚餐後回到房間。天早黑了，明亮的滿月畫出漆黑綿延的山峰輪廓，一縷絲綢薄雲幫由布岳圍上頭巾，閃閃星斗倒映林海中點點燈火。眼前的寧靜猶似壁上躍下的潑墨山水。

Everything was quiet, with the thick glass doors nothing can be heard of the highway in the valley or guests in other cabins. There’s a stereo system next to the TV, it can play CD, usb, and more conveniently bluetooth. It springs to life with Ghibli orchestral music. A curious thing, never having felt the need for familiar music in hotel or ryokans, now it felt the most essential thing.

房裡很安靜，厚玻璃門隔音效果很好，聽不到山谷裡的大分高速或其他住客。電視旁有一套音響，可以放CD, usb, 更方便的是有藍牙。音響啪的開始放送宮崎駿交響樂曲。很有意思，從前在飯店或旅館時從不覺得需要聽點熟悉的音樂，現在卻覺得沒這不行。

There are a dozen guest books in the room, filled with praise from amazed guests. We asked dad to write something since he had the best handwriting, but he forgot.

房內有留言簿，十多本內滿是住客驚嘆讚美之詞。有請字最漂亮的老爸寫幾句，但他忘了。

The bed was warm, soft with good support. Each bed had two futons, a harder base and a softer one on top.

床很溫暖，很柔軟彈性也夠。每張床有兩個床墊，底下的比較硬，搭配上頭的軟墊。

 

It was then it dawned on us that despite the heater was on, the room was not stuffy. I remembered something I had read on their website. Looking around I soon found the answer. Beneath the TV shelf was a set of grills, which at first looked abit like designs for a drawer. Put your hand closer and you can feel a gentle cool breeze. Each cabin has an under floor air cycling system that brought in fresh air from the outside to keep the room comfortable.

這時意識到雖然有開暖氣，但房間一點也不悶。我想起在官網上有看過什麼。我四處看看後很快找到了答案。在電視櫃下有一排格子，看上去有點像是抽屜還是什麼。手放過去便會感到微微涼風。每間小屋都有一個屋下換氣系統可從外面帶入新鮮空氣，保持房間舒適。

I woke up around 5 (fell asleep very early night before). My parents had not yet risen, I slid the doors close till there was only a small gap and turned on the living space lights without affecting them. Made some coffee, and sat on the couch and waited for the sunrise.

我大概5點睡醒 (前晚很早睡著)。我爸媽還在睡，於是我把紙門拉到剩一條縫後打開起居間的燈，沒有打擾到他們。泡了杯咖啡，坐在沙發上等日出。

It was the most remarkable view. The sun was behind the mountains and the peaks cast shadows on the cloud above, like rays of dark light. The snowy peak glimmered in the golden light, the whole of Mt Yufu was basked in a warm reddish glow.

景色太令人印象深刻了。太陽是從山後升起，山峰影子投射到雲上，像是黑色的光柱。山上的白雪變成一片金黃，整個由布岳籠罩著一股溫暖的紅光。

I went for a bath, the cool morning air fresh and golden sun on the face.

泡澡時，早晨的冷風和金光同時撫摸著臉頰。

Breakfast was served at 8:30am, again no exception.

早餐是8:30，同樣不能提早。

 

There was a platter of various sides, a curious mix of japanese and western dishes that matched well together.

早餐有一盤各式小菜，引人沉思的日式西式巧妙混和。

 

The rice came in 3 bowls, two large one small, without prompting. The small one for my mother.

送來3碗飯，2大碗1小碗，事前沒特別提出過請求。小碗是給老媽的。

Our unfinished meat from the night before came as a marinated stir-fried dish, a straightforward approach that focused on the taste of the meat.

昨晚沒吃完的肉重新登場，簡單的醃肉快炒，凸顯肉美味的直球。

During the meal the young lady brought to us a map of Yufuin, annotated by hand in chinese using many coloured pens, of the various shops and recommended sweets, cakes and other foods. It’s hard to imagine the effort it would have taken to translate and write them all out in detail.

用餐時Rika拿出一張由布院的地圖，上頭用各種色筆寫有中文，細膩討喜的標式出有特色的店家還有推薦的糖果糕點和其他小吃。很難想像花了多少時間精神來翻譯，標寫出來。

 

 

Back to the cabin, enjoying the music and scenery, chatting with my parents.

回到房間後繼續聽著音樂和風景，跟爸媽聊天喝茶。

At last, it was time to say farewell to this small, unforgettable ryokan. I call the front desk to let them know we will be checking out, and the staffs came over to help with our luggages.

美好總是有結束，該是跟這間令人流連忘返的旅館告別的時候。我打電話到櫃檯告知我們要準備退房了，Rika和另一位小姐連忙來離屋幫忙搬行李。

 

Before getting into the car I remembered to say, “Osewani nari mashita”, thank you for all the care given. I wish I knew better sentences to describe my gratitude for the experience.

上車前我記得該說什麼『お世話になりました』，感謝照顧。如果我會別的日文，能更貼切表示我對這次經驗的感謝就好了。

 

They helped direct us back out the car and waved us goodbye.

她們幫忙導引倒車，然後揮手和我們告別。

 

Most excellent food, most excellent room, most excellent view, excellent value, most perfect service. Even now there’s the urge to book a flight and visit again come summer.

吃滿分，住滿分，景色滿分，CP值超值，服務完美超滿分。現在不時有衝動想夏天再去一次。

 

Ryu no Hige Website 草屋根之宿 龍之鬍鬚官網：http://ryunohige.com/index.html

Tsukushi cabin for 3 on weekdays is 84000Y (28000Y per person). This may seem a little high, be assured it’s worth spending one night here than two at a regular ryokan in the 10~20k per person range.

つくし住三人平日84000(一人28000Y)。乍看可能很貴，住了就知道，其他一人一萬～兩萬的旅館兩晚不如住這一晚。

One thing to note, the telephone number in GPS navigation is incorrect. You must set the location manually or use the mapcode [269 292 760*44]

另外要注意GPS用電話的住址是錯的 需要手動設定或用mapcode 「269 292 760*44」