As I left I notices a poster.

It’s a poster advertising the Madoka exhibition. I spends the next few day wondering if I should go visit it.

Out of the warmth of the cafe and back onto the streets of Akiba.

There’s more people bustling about, and the maids are out in force giving out flyers to lure in new otakus.

 

As I wander I venture into a more traditional Akiba shop – electronics rather than otaku. The shelves of Geiger counters reminds me that Fukushima is a few hundred Ks away, and evidently it’s something that remains on Tokyonite’s minds.

I stayed in Akiba till it’s almost 3 before heading back up to check-in.

The room is less fancy than it looked on their website, for one the lighting isn’t too bright and the materials are plastic-ky. The wifi reception is also pretty bad. Still, it’s comfortable, the bed soft but not too soft, and there’s free coffee in the lobby.

After a short rest I head back out, this time down to Ginza where my Xmas illumination journey begins.

But first, food!

Fuji is recommended by many bloggers to be the best ton-katsu in Tokyo, situated in a side alley between Tokyo and Ginza.

Before I can verify that claim though, I have to find the place. For the first time in my life I am genuinely lost in city streets. The problem is Tokyo’s streets are named by a X-X-X 3 number grid system and there’s usually no signage at intersections.

After fruitlessly searching for 10s of minutes, very sure the place is close but nowhere in sight, I decided to try the smart-tab my brother gave me to get a tax refund for him. To my surprise google map has cached the area and I’m able to activate the GPS and find out just exactly where I am.

Turns out I took a wrong exit when I came out of Tokyo station and ended up on the south side of where I think I am.

Even with the help of GPS it took a few walks up and down the street to tracked down the place. Tucked neatly away in a side-side alley, different from where it looks to be on google map, it is all too easy to miss. I wish the bloggers mentioned that… but I guess they probably came in summer where it’s not so dark and things are easier to find.

Despite my delays I’m actually still early at 5pm, and the place isn’t “officially” open. Still, I barged in and called out “sumimasen!”. I’m pretty sure I used the wrong way to ask if the place is open (I asked if food is ready, or if it’s okay to have food.. or something), thankfully the owner understands what I mean and with a smile invites me to sit inside.

He probably gets a lot of foreigners who come for his ton-katsu – he quickly points them out on the menu. There’s only two choice, fillet and rose katsu. Bloggers suggest the rose so that’s what I ordered. 1100Y for the whole set, not bad for dinner.

The owner who’s also the chief is very friendly, and for the first time I’m treated to the famed Japanese hospitality. Those I’ve met at JR counter, hotel and Madoka cafe, while nice and helpful, felt reserved and distant.

It’s the best katsu I’ve ever had. Crispy on the outside, the pork has bits of fat in it, making it very succulent, yet doesn’t give an icky oily taste. When I have katsu in Taiwan I usually get a bit tired with the taste by the end. Here, despite the decently sized portion I feel like I can have another one with no problem. Simple yet profound, you can almost taste the years of experience that went into it.

The place isn’t very big, I suppose the cozy aged feel contributed no small part to the feeling you’re tasting something unique, like some old recipe perfected and passed down through the generations.

While I was paying the bill I had a little chat with the chief. I complemented him on how delicious it was, that I’m from Taiwan and everyone talks about his katsu being the best in Tokyo. He seems surprised and expressed his thanks with a bow. Wish I knew a few more phrases appropriate for the occasion :/

With a full stomach I head down the main street of Ginza. The theme of this year’s illumination at Ginza is the Wings of Hope, where sculptures in the shape of wings lines the Chuo-dori (central main street).

 

 

 

 

Originally I was going to take the metro to Tokyo Tower, but after traversing the Ginza lights I find myself close to Shinbashi, with no easy metro connections. I decide I may as well walk at this point.

(One of my many mistakes throughout the trip, though I managed the distance fine then, this will cost me in later days)

Down and down the Hibiya-dori I go. This is the quieter areas of town, though I passed by a number of very high class looking izakaya (Japanese bar), plus an interesting night market street filled with smoke of unknown-yaki.

 

Seeing the Tower is a huge moral boost. My pace quickens in anticipation. Little did I realize it’s still some way from the park to the Tower.

 

 

I didn’t go in and up the Tower. My first night’s schedule is very cramped and I’m already behind schedule.

(Another mistake… filled too many things into one night, the first no less)

After a few shots I head on past to take the metro down to Ebisu.

At Ebisu I’m greeted by the longest, longest, longest conveyer walkway I’ve ever seen, some 400m of nothing but walkway.

 

Yebisu Garden Palace’s illuminations are sponsored by Baccarat crystals. Yebisu is one of Tokyo’s many integrated centers, housing both residential, office and retail complexes.

 

 

 

After Yebisu I take the Yamanote down toward Meguro.

Meguro river is one of the most famous sakura seeing spots, where the river banks are lined with sakuras. In winter the trees are barren, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a sight to behold.

Then….. the lights went out.

Megura’s illuminations shut down at 10pm. I am so badly behind schedule, no sooner have I taken my first shots of the riverside does the light shut out on me…

I stood dumbstruck in the blitzing cold, feeling empty and resigned.

Slowly, I ascends the the long stairs to the station, closing my first day, full of surprises and disappointments.

For more visit the Day 1 gallery.