As I left I notices a poster.

It’s a poster advertising the Madoka exhibition. I spends the next few day wondering if I should go visit it.

Out of the warmth of the cafe and back onto the streets of Akiba.

There’s more people bustling about, and the maids are out in force giving out flyers to lure in new otakus.

 

As I wander I venture into a more traditional Akiba shop – electronics rather than otaku. The shelves of Geiger counters reminds me that Fukushima is a few hundred Ks away, and evidently it’s something that remains on Tokyonite’s minds.

I stayed in Akiba till it’s almost 3 before heading back up to check-in.

The room is less fancy than it looked on their website, for one the lighting isn’t too bright and the materials are plastic-ky. The wifi reception is also pretty bad. Still, it’s comfortable, the bed soft but not too soft, and there’s free coffee in the lobby.

After a short rest I head back out, this time down to Ginza where my Xmas illumination journey begins.

But first, food!

Fuji is recommended by many bloggers to be the best ton-katsu in Tokyo, situated in a side alley between Tokyo and Ginza.

Before I can verify that claim though, I have to find the place. For the first time in my life I am genuinely lost in city streets. The problem is Tokyo’s streets are named by a X-X-X 3 number grid system and there’s usually no signage at intersections.

After fruitlessly searching for 10s of minutes, very sure the place is close but nowhere in sight, I decided to try the smart-tab my brother gave me to get a tax refund for him. To my surprise google map has cached the area and I’m able to activate the GPS and find out just exactly where I am.

Turns out I took a wrong exit when I came out of Tokyo station and ended up on the south side of where I think I am.

Even with the help of GPS it took a few walks up and down the street to tracked down the place. Tucked neatly away in a side-side alley, different from where it looks to be on google map, it is all too easy to miss. I wish the bloggers mentioned that… but I guess they probably came in summer where it’s not so dark and things are easier to find.

Despite my delays I’m actually still early at 5pm, and the place isn’t “officially” open. Still, I barged in and called out “sumimasen!”. I’m pretty sure I used the wrong way to ask if the place is open (I asked if food is ready, or if it’s okay to have food.. or something), thankfully the owner understands what I mean and with a smile invites me to sit inside.

He probably gets a lot of foreigners who come for his ton-katsu – he quickly points them out on the menu. There’s only two choice, fillet and rose katsu. Bloggers suggest the rose so that’s what I ordered. 1100Y for the whole set, not bad for dinner.

The owner who’s also the chief is very friendly, and for the first time I’m treated to the famed Japanese hospitality. Those I’ve met at JR counter, hotel and Madoka cafe, while nice and helpful, felt reserved and distant.

It’s the best katsu I’ve ever had. Crispy on the outside, the pork has bits of fat in it, making it very succulent, yet doesn’t give an icky oily taste. When I have katsu in Taiwan I usually get a bit tired with the taste by the end. Here, despite the decently sized portion I feel like I can have another one with no problem. Simple yet profound, you can almost taste the years of experience that went into it.

The place isn’t very big, I suppose the cozy aged feel contributed no small part to the feeling you’re tasting something unique, like some old recipe perfected and passed down through the generations.

While I was paying the bill I had a little chat with the chief. I complemented him on how delicious it was, that I’m from Taiwan and everyone talks about his katsu being the best in Tokyo. He seems surprised and expressed his thanks with a bow. Wish I knew a few more phrases appropriate for the occasion :/

With a full stomach I head down the main street of Ginza. The theme of this year’s illumination at Ginza is the Wings of Hope, where sculptures in the shape of wings lines the Chuo-dori (central main street).

 

 

 

 

Originally I was going to take the metro to Tokyo Tower, but after traversing the Ginza lights I find myself close to Shinbashi, with no easy metro connections. I decide I may as well walk at this point.

(One of my many mistakes throughout the trip, though I managed the distance fine then, this will cost me in later days)

Down and down the Hibiya-dori I go. This is the quieter areas of town, though I passed by a number of very high class looking izakaya (Japanese bar), plus an interesting night market street filled with smoke of unknown-yaki.

 

Seeing the Tower is a huge moral boost. My pace quickens in anticipation. Little did I realize it’s still some way from the park to the Tower.

 

 

I didn’t go in and up the Tower. My first night’s schedule is very cramped and I’m already behind schedule.

(Another mistake… filled too many things into one night, the first no less)

After a few shots I head on past to take the metro down to Ebisu.

At Ebisu I’m greeted by the longest, longest, longest conveyer walkway I’ve ever seen, some 400m of nothing but walkway.

 

Yebisu Garden Palace’s illuminations are sponsored by Baccarat crystals. Yebisu is one of Tokyo’s many integrated centers, housing both residential, office and retail complexes.

 

 

 

After Yebisu I take the Yamanote down toward Meguro.

Meguro river is one of the most famous sakura seeing spots, where the river banks are lined with sakuras. In winter the trees are barren, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a sight to behold.

Then….. the lights went out.

Megura’s illuminations shut down at 10pm. I am so badly behind schedule, no sooner have I taken my first shots of the riverside does the light shut out on me…

I stood dumbstruck in the blitzing cold, feeling empty and resigned.

Slowly, I ascends the the long stairs to the station, closing my first day, full of surprises and disappointments.

For more visit the Day 1 gallery.

As the captain promised, we’re the first flight into Narita, landing just after 6 in the morning. The Japanese breakfast they offered had natto. After some thought I decided I can delay the start of my Japanese experience for something less risky and went for the ham and egg.

After clearing custom, it’s time to find the JR office to buy a NEX+Suica pass.

 

 

NEX is the Narita Express, the not quite express train between Narita and Tokyo. The bonus is really the Suica, the travel smartcard for the Tokyo area, I’ll get to use a lot the next few days and more than just on trains. I bought the single way package as I plan to return on the faster Keisei Skyliner. Together the package saves about 1000Y.

 

 

The Suica card that comes in the package is a special edition with its own unique design. The average Suica is apparently quite plain.

A few years ago Tokyo had 2 smart card systems, Suica and Pasmo. Thankfully they’ve integrated the system and all I need is Suica. I can’t imagine juggling two cards for the two systems and keeping them appropriately charged with money.

During the 1 hrs trip I got my first glimpse of Tokyo’s landscape. Actually reminds me a bit of Taiwan, with scenes of 2-3 floors buildings in the outskirts melding into 5-10 level apartments as we get closer to the city. Much cleaner and more organized though.

I get off at Tokyo station, time to transfer to get to Ueno where my hotel is.

Tokyo station is undergoing some major renovation, but I got around okay, heading up endless flights of escalators to get to the suburban train levels, where I got onto the Yamanote line. It confused me at first why it’s called the Yamanote when the Kanji clearly reads Yamate. Later I learned the long history of name changes on wiki and how it came to be called so.

The train was surprisingly empty. While I had hoped it won’t be crowded since I have to drag my luggage with me, it was still somewhat disappointing.

A few minutes later and I’m at Ueno. Immediately I’m in awe of the scale of the station and the amount of shops there are platform side (within the ticket area).

I settled on Ueno for my base of operation fairly early on, the place is on the Yamanote line (which is a must) and is crossed by 3 other metro lines, close to Asakusa where the Tobu train to Washinomiya starts, within walking distance to Akihabara, and the hotels here are cheaper than other more centralized areas.

The hotel is a short 5 min walk away. Which felt more like 2 (later on it’ll feel more like 10…).

I originally was looking to stay at the original Cube Hotel Ueno south of the station, then I saw on Rakuten that they have a new hotel which opened only in June, so I figured why not.It’s a little further but overall better positioned I think since it’s on the main street so I don’t have to worry about going through alleys when I come back late (which I will with all the xmas light night outs).

Ueno is packed with business hotels like these, I chose Cube because I figured I don’t need hotel breakfast anyway (from the photos, other hotel’s breakfast consists of bread buns and unappetizing brocolli), and it’s 100% non-smoking. Plus it’s new and the beds seem quite big compared to other hotels.

I dropped off my luggage at the reception then away I go.

I actually didn’t have a concrete plan for Day 1 daytime since I wasn’t sure when I’ll arrive at the hotel. Since it turned out I got here early I decided I’ll walk down to Akiba, essentially moving my scheduled Akiba day forward.

It’s still early, the Okachimachi market just south of Ueno station is only just beginning to stir. Akiba isn’t too far, I’d say about 15min walk.

 

 

 

Outside of K-Books I noticed the walls are lined with illustrations by Tinkle (てぃんくる).

One of the first illustrators I came to love and follow, who recently came into the spotlight for their works on the light novel Rokyu-bu. I consider them the queen of gothic lolis for their style of frail, delicate, intricate, devilish-innocent loli. I remember a joke a while ago – Tinkle often have to call a pause in their manga due to illness, one guy on a discussion board asked “just how weak is the artist?”, another replied “as weak as their loli”.

Tinkle is one of my top 10 illustrators, but not the best since their art style has a limited range which makes one loli very similar to another. Still there’s no one out there who can do better folds and details in clothing. Anyway I might go into various illustrators in another post.

 

After a brief tour of akiba, I head to the Goods Smile cafe in the Akiba Cultural Zone building above K-Books.

Good Smile, or Sinister Smile as they’re sometimes known for releasing figures and goods that’ll clean your wallets, also operates cafes that runs various anime themes throughout the year. As I found out during my trip plannings I’m very lucky and they’re doing Madoka till Spring. They’ve actually opened a new shop in Taipei just in November as well, which no doubt I’ll visit the next time I’m back in Taiwan.

(Only now I’m back in Sydney do I realize I actually don’t have a shot of the cafe entrance, ah well the entrance isn’t too special.)

(Putting such an important event on the first day when I’ve not quite figured out my camera is a big mistake, too much of my shots are out of focus or badly exposed from the high contrast environment)

 

They have a 1kg sized curry rice, which if you finish you’ll get to get your photo taken and go on the “Contract signed list of fame”. I went with the smallest one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There’s more than just Madoka, they also have other Good Smile designed figures on display, and a smaller section on Fate – Phantasm Carnival

 

For more visit the Day 1 gallery.

 

Not much say about Day 0. For people who do not go overseas much it might be quite an experience to go through customs and visit the new concourse at Sydney Airport, for me… it’s business as usual.

Flight leaves at 10:30, actually one of the last flights out of Sydney before the curfew. I cleared custom just after 7 and got in the long queue to get the tax refund on my camera and bro’s smartpad. It’s a looong line, a few people actually had to leave because their flight was about to take off. Thankfully I had all the time in the world.

30min later I’m back in the concourse and decided to play with my new Fuji X10.

For someone who’s not really into cameras, I think I made the right choice in picking the X10 over a M4/3 like Olympus EP-3. The controls are close enough to my old Fuji F50fd that I don’t find any issues finding what I need, and I immediately came to appreciate the amount of dials it comes with.

 

 

 

 

 

 

While I waited, I noticed that there’s alot of final calls to passengers. One passenger actually had his luggage unloaded off the plane and the plane took off without him. Every time this happens I wonder if they are lost and couldn’t understand the repeated broadcasts or there’s some other reason. All the stores are closed at the point so it’s not as if they might be lost shops. (a side note, why do every shop close at 9:30 when there’s at least 6 flights leaving after 10? I had to hit the vending machine because I couldn’t get a coffee from the cafes, not ever McCafe…)

It was my first time flying Kangaroo Airline. After being so used to Cathay it’s quite a shock how OLD the 747 is. The entertainment system is outdated and halfway through the flight simply gave up on working. No biggie, there were no decent movie available, I simply listened to the many chinese comedy tracks I have loaded onto my phone.

The seat is comfortable, I wish they got a power socket like Cathay though. The food is decent, typical Aussie food + Japanese options, overall I’d say just a touch better than Cathay.

The captain is surprisingly chattery, talking all about the flight paths and how he hope time it so we get into Narita Airport just seconds after curfew ends, unlike Cathay where you’d only get a welcome and take-off/landing formality announcements. Oh and, the amount of stewards are surprising, hahaha. Cathay usually only have 1, at most 2 on each flight, not sure if it’s a airline policy thing or a cultural thing.

 

 

November 2011. I secured an offer to explore new prospects in 2012. Handed in my resignation. Sat down, breathed out long and deep, the heavy stone finally off the mind. The realization then dawns – I have half a month of free time from before Xmas to New Year. Should I do something with it? And what?

Well not so much what. Japan, the choice is obvious. I have always wanted to visit Japan, but between the need to go back to Taiwan and a lack of excuse or companion, it’s never quite realized.

Even now, as I researched for hotels and destinations, deep down I don’t really think I’d go through with it. Cost is one, plane ticket and hotels are horrendously expensive at this time of year, then the fact I will be going alone – it was impossible to find a travel companion on such short notice, then there’s also that I have no real idea what to do in Japan, other than being there.

Regardless of my doubts, I forged on.

When I started there was only an inkling of what I may want to do, enough for a short few days in Tokyo, but other than that not much else. I begin by looking at official tourist websites, various blogs and backpackers.tw, a website where backpackers share their experiences and advices.

On matters of gathering information I soon realized my fortunes. Taiwanese love Japan, so there is no shortage of blogs and posts, or “lazypacks” – organized cheat sheets, from accommodations, transport options to places to eat. Then if there’s going to be other language version of official websites, it’s going to be English. Plus I also have my unbalanced knowledge of Japanese learned from animes and light novels, not quite practical but close to passable.

In any case, as my research progressed I found my timing may have been quite good. Indeed whereas I was worried if the planned 10 days is too long, it is now too short and I’m constantly trying to decide what things to cut out.

Xmas Illumination

The first major thing I settled on was Xmas Illuminations. Tokyo’s shopping districts all put up light shows around Xmas and this became the main axis I based the rest of my trip on. The problem is most decorations are torn down after Xmas. So I’ll be rushing to see them all before Xmas ends then left bored after.

Comiket

Then, an unexpected find. Comiket 81 goes from 29^th to 31^st. The largest anime event in the world with over 300,000 visitors, famously illustrated in Lucky Star and other animes, often described as a war zone. No ifs of buts, I simply have to be there.

Which means I’m locked in Tokyo before 25^th and after 28^th. I thought about going to Osaka in between but in the end I decided it is not worth leaving Tokyo for just one other location. A return ticket on Shinkansen costs the same as a weekly foreigner pass, might as well save Osaka for the next time when I travel the whole length of Japan at once to make the most of it.

Studio Ghibli Museum

For the Studio Ghibli Museum. I didn’t realize it needed pre-booking until I decided to take a closer look after prompting from a colleague. Gave me quite a scare because their delegated Australian agent only does things over post and gives no guarantee regarding availability or when they’ll be able to process anyone’s requests, and this is less than 3 weeks out from when departure!

Thankfully I then looked into the agent in Taiwan. Lo and behold! Online purchase and courier option! Pass to Studio Ghibli secured.

 

The rest of the destinations are then allocated based on that night’s illuminations location, with the rest tossed into the free days of 27^th and 28^th.

After that places to eat near the destinations are found and marked on the map. The schedule rapidly took shape.